Tips For Making Money Selling Online

How To Source Video Games At Walmart Bins For Non Gaming Old Dudes (Or Dudettes)

So I haven’t played video games since Atari ( Atari 2600 , well actually we had the Sears version).

My kids grew up playing video games but I couldn’t tell you what they played, so I am really in the dark when it comes to being knowledgeable about video games.

What I do know, is that the there is a ton of money to be made from selling video games on Amazon and eBay. I have sold games in the past but never regularly.

In this post, I want to show how to find the deals in the bin of video games that seem to be at every Walmart.

So there never seems to be any price tags on these games, but here is the secret : There are all sorts of deals to be had in these bins if you take the time to look through them, but more importantly the techniques I will show can make you tons of money even if you have lots of competition in your area.

The angle is simple. Most resellers are going to pass on scanning anything that doesn’t have a price on it ( or a price on the shelf for it) .

Most people aren’t going to take the products to the price check scanner station to check every product ( remember, time is money).  I know I personally wouldn’t do that.

So what are we to do?

Simple. Not everyone knows this but the Walmart app actually has a scanner built in that you can scan a product and will give you the price at that particular store.

Basically this is just like having the price checker scanner right in your hands.

***Hint, sometimes the lowest clearance price sticker isn’t the lowest price. You can sometimes find the price is lower and has been left on the shelf by other resellers. You can find this out with the Walmart app scanner.

So when I see this big bin of unpriced video games, I have no clue on what is worth something, so I have to do some old school scanning.

My approach is to use the Amazon Seller app to scan the video games. Sometimes the bin is sort of neatly packed so that you can sort of have a system to work through the box, sometimes it isn’t so easy.

So you have to have some sort of minimum selling price to investigate more and I generally use the $15 price point. The video game needs to be selling for more than $15 on Amazon or it gets tossed  back into the pile.

The common discounted prices are usually $3, $5, $7, $9 and $11, so the $15 baseline really only works on the $3 and $5, but you have to have something to sort with.

****** If you get a $.03 price, that is the code for them to destroy the product. My suggestion is to take that through self checkout or they won’t sell it to you. Sometimes you might get lucky taking it through a regular checkout but why chance it?

So once we find a video game that is selling over $15 on Amazon, then we switch to the Walmart app and scan it to see what the price is. Now this is a numbers game and most games will still be too high to make a profit ( I personally am looking for probably 70% + profit on the games but will take 50% if it is a very low sales rank)

Speaking of sale rank, what are we looking for?  Well that depends. In general, I am grabbing anything 5k ish and under. ( heck up to 10k doesn’t really worry me) Now if I see 25k or more, I might want to see why.  It could be that there just isn’t much supply or some crazy high priced ones on Amazon. This also depend on how much the profit is. First I am not going to waste a lot of time if it isn’t a very profitable game. Second it depends on the cost of the game. I am more willing to take a chance with a $3 game than say a $11 game. Also the number of copies I can buy.  I don’t want 25 copies of a 50k game but a copy or 2 is ok.

Now some pointer here:

First, you need to remember what you have scanned already.  There is no use in rescanning 10 copies of the same game. This goes for both good one and bad ones. If you see you have a copy in your cart, then just toss anymore of them you find into your cart.

Do be cautious because the same game on a different platform doesn’t mean they are both worth as much. On one platform it may be really valuable and the other platform it may be worthless.

So basically you just work your way through the bin like this. Not everything gets scanned with the Amazon seller app because if it was already a dud, you don’t rescan it and if it is already a winner, you don’t rescan it, you just toss it in your cart. So very few of the games need to be scanned with the Walmart app.

**** Hint, just because you wouldn’t send a video to Amazon with a slightly torn wrapper, doesn’t mean you can’t sell it on eBay, so don’t just automatically toss it back into the bin.

So now that you have all the valuable videos out of the Walmart bin, this isn’t the end of making money.  Having this games with the UPC codes available is like gold because we are going to us them to find more copies at other Walmarts.

***** Hint, this is actually the biggest takeaway you should get from this post ( that is if you don’t already know this)

For this, we are going to use Brickseek. When I am processing my shipments, I sign into my Brickseek account and us my hand scanner to scan in the UPC code.

Now this isn’t exactly the best time to be sourcing since I am busy processing, so I actually just take a casual glance at the results but I then I just add it to my local alerts so that it is saved back and I can come back and look at it later.

If you aren’t a Brickseek subscriber, you can simply open at Notepad document and if you scan the UPC, it should print it in the document. You could then add a quick note.

Hint***** You should be doing this with everything you source from Walmart!

Also if you are in the small Facebook group chats of other AZ sellers like I am in, then that is something you would share sometimes. That is how good relationship get formed and how you all make more money.  ( just don’t go posting stuff like this in public Facebook groups because it will tank your prices)

So this is the simple process I use to source video games from the Walmart bins.  


How To Find UPC Codes On Website

Walmart is one of the largest retailers in the world and many Amazon FBA sellers source products from there.

One of the issues resellers have is finding the all important UPC codes. Walmart has them on the site but they are hidden away in the source code.

In this post I want to show how to find these codes.

UPC Codes For Both OA and RA

First, let’s look at why we even bother with finding these UPC codes.

There are actually a lot of different whys to finding these codes.

I personally am not using them for OA ( online arbitrage) but for RA ( retail arbitrage). I want to use either the Brickseek website or the Walton app to see local stock levels to pick up stock.

Other people want to do a Google search of the UPC to hoping find other sources of stock on other websites to do OA.

And there are probably other reasons, but these are the 2 that stand out to me.

Digging Into The Code

So I am not a techy, but here is the process to find the hidden UPC code in the Walmart code. ( there is an easier way that I will show after this)

First you need to be on a Walmart product page (duh!)

Next, you hit Control “U” This opens up the source code of the page

( now don’t be freaking out because of this)

Next hit Control “F” . This is to open up the search function

Next type “UPC” and hit enter

You will see UPC highlighted and the UPC next to this.

Now you can copy this code.

Note: If this is a 3rd party seller on, you might not find a UPC code.

The Easier Way

So this is too much work for me, so I built a Chrome Extension for this.

WM UPC Finder

So on this same page, I just click the WM UPC Finder icon and it pulls this up automtically ( along with an actual bar code)

That is a lot less work!

Using The UPC For Sourcing

I made a video on how to use this for sourcing but first here are the tool I use in the video

When searching the UPC code I am using an extension called OA Highlight for this but you can use Google search for this.

I am also using RA Seek to be able to highlight the UPC and shortcut to the Brickseek page to see local Walmart stock levels.  You can manually do this by copy/paste the UPC code on the Brickseek website

I am also using the Android Walton app to do the same thing as Brickseek with my phone

The video below will show you how to make all of this work


How To Source RA For Amazon FBA With Little Or No Cell Signal

When you can’t get a signal, you can’t source.

We all have been there before ( some of us more than others) when for whatever reason why, we can’t get a cell signal to run our Amazon sourcing scanning app. This is very frustrating and in this post, I want to show some ways to work around this.

Sourcing FBA RA Fringe Areas

I live in a rural area and a lot of times the cell towers aren’t exactly close to having strong signal. If you go inside some of the steel sided stores around here ( basically pole barns) , there is no signal at all.

This happens at most of the farm stores, Dollar Generals, etc.

There is also a city I go to that has both an Ollies and Rosas that is in an area that has zero cell service for my carrier. I know there is some good stuff to source out of both of these stores but have never been able to source there.

Sourcing Workarounds

There first and easiest fix is to use a different sourcing app, so let’s look at how the apps work.

The Amazon seller app is what I use normally. It requires more cell data because it is a live search. Other scanning apps like Scoutify, Scanpower, Profit Bandit, etc, don’t get to access the same data in the Amazon API. They have to use “old” data and that is why you will see a price difference if compared to the Amazon seller app.

My go to is the Scoutify app. It uses less cell data so it will work better with a weaker/slower signal. ( the bar code reader also works faster too than the Amazon app for less battery drain) .

Don’t get me wrong, I don’t like using Scoutify if I don’t have to. I like the Amazon seller app showing me if it is restricted or not and in general, I find it harder to interpret the data on Scoutify compared to the Amazon seller app, but it is way better than nothing.

The second workaround that I personally don’t use but know several other FBA sellers that do this is to have a second cell phone with a different carrier.

In my case, I am on Verizon but I know another local seller that is on ATT or T Moble and can scan at the Ollies that I can’t get signal from Verizon at.

“I am not going to pay for a second phone” is what some are saying right now. Really? It is a business expense and you can take it off your taxes and secondly, what if you go into that “unscannable “ store and make $2k? That would make it worth it.

The third work around is to hook up to the internet via Infinity. I personally don’t have this service, but one of my sons had access and was able to scan in places that I couldn’t because I didn’t have an cell service.

Many stores have a public wifi signal and you should check to see if you can hook up.  If it is a locked wifi, you might be able to talk an employee or manger into letting you have the password.

The fourth workaround is the many times there is actually an area that does get some signal somewhere in the store.

If you are pretty good at “knowing what is probably worth something”, you can toss stuff in your cart and then head to the signal area to scan.

This is hit or miss but does work. Usually this is upfront near a window or on a side.

Not exactly fun but it will work in a pinch.

Fifth workaround is to carry in the Amazon product database.


I do a lot of book sourcing and use a Dell PDA that I have the whole book catalog downloaded on it to scan books faster.

I use a service called Scoutpal ( there are others) that cost me $9.99 a month. Not only does it have the whole book category in the database ( that is what is was primarily set up for in the beginning) it also includes most of the other categories as a freebie.

I can literally scan anyplace without any signal at all.

Now it has drawbacks.

First, you have to update the database which is updated on the website twice a week. So the data is no where current in most cases.

Second, while is says there is the whole database, somethings just aren’t there and you can’t do any source to title search. Basically if someone changed the UPC code, you won’t see the product show up.

Finally, the data is extremely basic. It is just going to get you in the ballpark of basic prices. Many times you have to make some assumptions about MF verses FBA.

Sixth, if it is a chain store like Big Lots, you could source one that has signal and then go to the one that doesn’t and pick up the same products. This means you will probably miss stuff that the non signal store might only have but it is a somewhat workable plan.

You could take this a step farther and buy a sourcing list. Say I could buy a list for the Ollies I can’t get signal in. I would basically just look for the stuff on the list and source that way.

Finally the last case ( and most sucky way to have to do this) would be to snap pictures of products that you thought would be worth money and go back home ( or where you have signal) and look up the products on Amazon. Obviously the more experience with sourcing you are, the better chance you could pick winners.


While lack of signal when sourcing sucks, it is not the end of the world. Most of the things I listed here, most seller won’t do. This is good for you if you will take the extra steps that others won’t and should help you find profitable produces that other can’t.